Down Under Wines

est you think that the libations landscape in the land down under is restricted only to chugging Fosters Lager while throwing a few shrimp on the barbie, let your intrepid liquor reporter provide enlightenment.
The wine industry in Australia began in the 1780s, when vine cuttings were brought from European vineyards to the penal colonies in New South Wales.
The first attempts at growing European vines in Australia were largely unsuccessful, but with dogged perseverance, the Australian wine industry was exporting wines back to England by the 1820s.
The wine industry experienced a tremendous boost when England stopped shipping convicts to Australia, and free immigration from Europe began in earnest. By the 1870s, Australian wines were consistently winning international competitions, much to the dismay of the stuffy old-world wine producers of Europe.

After decades of being known primarily for cheap and cheerful reds, the winemakers of Australia decided to move upmarket in 2024, ripping out millions of vines to refocus on quality over quantity.
Lest you think this means Aussie wines will be scarce on the local shelves, fear not, as Australia still produces approximately 1.2 billion litres of wine each year, one-third of which is consumed domestically, and the rest sold on the international market.
Much like our own Canadian beer industry, the Australian wine industry is dominated by a few major players that control 80% of the market, then scads of tiny producers that occupy the fringes.
The largest conglomerate in the down under wine industry is the Foster’s Group, who owns several well-known brands, including Wolf Blass, Penfolds, Rosemount, and Lindemans. Yes, that’s the same Foster’s Group that produces the eponymous Foster’s Lager, the beer made so popular by TV commercials with funny accents.
While most of the noble grape varietals from Europe can be grown in Australia’s hot and dry climate, Shiraz is the grape that has become synonymous with Australian wine.
To make things confusing, the grape is called Syrah in old-world wine regions like France, but is commonly called Shiraz by new-world producers like Australia and Canada.
The Syrah / Shiraz grape produces a lush and full-bodied red wine, which coincidentally, is the same way your intrepid liquor reporter prefers his women.
Differences in terroir between the original Syrah plantings in France and the Shiraz vines in Australia account for noticeable differences in wines from these two regions, even though the grapes are the same.
French Syrah tends to have a more elegant and subtle flavor with a smoky dried fruit finish. Aussie Shiraz has a higher alcohol content, and is much more fruit-forward, with jammy flavors of fresh berries and a peppery aftertaste.
The new-world flavor of the Aussie Shiraz tends to be more approachable to new wine drinkers, much to the chagrin of the snooty French sommeliers who see the less elegant flavors as an affront to their long history with the varietal.
Today, Australia has the 2nd-largest plantings of Shiraz vineyards, a close second to the vast Syrah vineyards of France. As consumer tastes continue to gravitate towards the fruit-forward flavors of new world wines, your intrepid liquor reporter predicts that Aussie Shiraz will overtake French Syrah within the next ten years.
No discussion on Australian wine would be complete without mentioning the overwhelming popularity of boxed wine. More than half of the wine sold domestically in Oz comes in a box instead of a bottle.
While North American consumers still haven’t fully accepted the idea that good wine can come in a box, the Australian market has latched onto it with gusto.
Vineyards love the reduction in packaging and shipping costs of up to 80% when compared to bottles. This lets winemakers extend substantial discounts to buyers of boxed wines, which are often exactly the same varietals you can buy in the bottle.
The chief advantage is that the airtight plastic bladder inside the box collapses as the wine is dispensed, so no oxygen ever gets at the wine. This stops the wine from oxidizing, so while a bottle of wine may go bad a few days after it has been opened, a half-finished box of wine can stay perfectly fresh for weeks or even months.
My personal favorite Australian wine is the Rosemount Shiraz, available pretty much everywhere. You can find it at your local booze merchant in the black bottle with the squared-off base. Pick up a bottle up on your way home for a taste of what Oz has to offer!

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Nick Jeffrey

Nick Jeffrey

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