Dear Near Beer

Alcohol free beer is experiencing a surge in popularity that has not been seen since the dark days of Prohibition.

An alcohol free beer goes through the same brewing process as a regular beer, starting with boiling the wort, adding the hops, and fermenting with yeast.  This is the point that a regular beer would be bottled, but to produce a so-called near beer, the alcohol is removed via reverse osmosis or vacuum distillation.

Despite the name, alcohol free beer may contain up to 0.5% ABV, the legal threshold here in Canada for an alcohol free beer, which is about the same as the amount of naturally occurring alcohol in glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Several of the megabrewers have had so-called near beers on the market for decades, with O’Douls and Budweiser Prohibition being the most recognizable.  Unfortunately, the alcohol free options have the same flavour profiles as the traditional macrobrews, so have been scorned by those with more fanciful palates.

Fortunately, craftier alternatives have been appearing here in Canada over the past few years, meeting a pent-up demand for more health-conscious consumers.

Partake Brewing led the charge a few years back, a scrappy startup headed up by a craft beer fan that had to stop the boozing after being diagnosed with Crohn’s disease.  Not content to give up his beloved beer, and unsatisfied with the alcohol free options from the megabrewers, he developed what might be Canada’s first craft near bear, using a painstakingly developed yeast strain that can produce a flavourful brew at less than 0.5% ABV.

You may have seen Partake Brewing pitching their business plan on CBC Television’s Dragons’ Den last year, where none other than Calgary-based beer baroness Manjit Minhas of Minhas Breweries fame invested $300k in the fledgling operation.

The beer selection at Partake Brewing has expanded from their original IPA to include a Pale Ale, Blonde, and Stout styles, with the IPA remaining the most popular.

In what might just be the most awesome name for an alcohol free beer ever, Calgary-based One For The Road Brewing Company launched just this month, and I was lucky enough to taste their wares during YYC Beer Week.  As the name would suggest, I took one can on the road, sipping with gusto as I strolled along the sidewalk enjoying a delicious alcohol free beer.

The initial offering is called Stone Sofa Kölsch, a beer style from the German city of Köln that uses a warm-fermenting ale yeast, but is then cold conditioned like a lager.

The Kölsch style is already well known here in Alberta, with both Big Rock and Wild Rose having popular examples, and this alcohol-free option being a welcome addition.

Not content to be left out of this new market, Calgary-based Village Brewing also released an alcohol free option this month.  Named the Village Local Pale Ale, it weighs in at 0.3% ABV, and is made with locally grown Alberta barley.

Pouring a rich golden colour into my glass, the Village Local has sweet notes of caramelized malts, balanced with a robust bitterness from the blend of Oregon and Australian hops that finish with a citrusy zest.

The Citra hops from Oregon are renowned in the craft beer industry for their citrus aromas and the Ella hops from the Yakima Valley of Australia add floral and spicy notes, without imparting an overly harsh bitterness.  The Village Local Pale Ale is entirely sessionable, and is sure to be a hit at summer festivals and sporting events due to its alcohol free status, making it drinkable anywhere.

The offerings from Partake Brewing and Village Brewing are already widely available in Alberta, both at local restaurants and bottle shops, as well as the big chains like Co-op Wines & Spirits.

One For The Road Brewing is so new that availability is still ramping up, but can be found at well-stocked liquor stores, assorted restaurants, and even in the tap rooms of a few other craft brewers that want to offer an alcohol free alternative.

Whether you choose an alcohol free option for health reasons, have volunteered as a designated driver, or just want a tasty beverage at the office or on the sports field, the near beer market is heating up in Canada, and is expected to double in size over the next few years, so expect to see even more choices in the future.

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About the author

Nick Jeffrey

Nick Jeffrey


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