Rye Observations

Back in the previous millennia, when I was but a callow youth with an undeveloped palate for the finer spirits, I would stick to the single malts of Scotland, thinking that they were a wee bit classier than the uncouth louts knocking back Rye & Ginger highballs, no doubt reinforcing the old stereotype that Rye Whisky contains a fight in every bottle.
In the fullness of time, and as Alberta started to develop homegrown crafty distillers, I branched out into locally produced hooch that was every bit as good as the best Scotland has to offer. Interestingly, although Canada is known in the tippling world as a fancier of Rye, our so-called Rye Whiskies often contain little to no Rye at all.
To ensure we’re all speaking the same lingo, let’s clear up a few terms. Whisky (or whiskey) is a broad category of spirits, all made by distilling a fermented mash of grains. The Scots and the Canadians tend to use the spelling “whisky”, while the Irish and Americans tend to use the spelling “whiskey”. Both are considered valid spellings. The term derives originally from the Gaelic “uisge beatha”, meaning ‘water of life’.
Canadian Whisky is usually called Rye Whisky. While American Rye Whiskey must contain at least 51% rye, there is no such Canadian legislation – the legal guidelines state: “Canadian rye whisky shall be distilled in Canada and shall have the aroma, taste and character generally attributed to Canadian whisky”. Although usually referred to as Rye, Canadian Whisky is mostly corn, with smaller amounts of rye added for flavoring. Canadian Whisky is generally considered less intense than a Scotch or Bourbon, and is generally consumed in mixed drinks, rather than by itself.
One of Canada’s oldest whiskies is Canadian Club. It was actually founded in Detroit in 1858, but quickly moved across the river to Windsor to avoid the looming Prohibition in the U.S. Thousands of bottles were smuggled across the border during those dark and dry days, and Canadian Club has remained a favorite on both sides of the border ever since.
However, the company that made Canada a world player in whisky circles was definitely Seagrams, most famous for their Crown Royal Whisky. The Crown Royal brand was first produced for the maiden visit to Canada by King George IV and Queen Elizabeth in 1939, and remains the most recognizable Canadian Whisky to this day.
With its distinctive crown-shaped bottle and royal purple velvet bag, this is a whisky familiar to Canadians young and old. Even the kids know this one, as the purple velvet bag usually ends up holding lego or other small toys after Mom and Dad tap the bottle.
While Crown Royal and Canadian Club are two of the best-known Canadian Whiskies, we’ve got our own homegrown whisky right here in Alberta, and I’m not talking about the output of my private still hidden down in the reeds at the end of the lake.
That’s right, gentle reader, you can feel a warm and glowing local pride, similar to the sensation of a fine whisky sliding down your throat. Calgary’s historic Ramsay neighbourhood is home to Alberta Distillers, which has been producing fine whiskies since 1946, including Alberta Premium, one of the very few 100% Rye Whiskies in Canada. Most of the others are primarily corn, but here in Alberta, we take our whisky seriously, and do not dilute it with the lesser grains.
Alberta Premium is much feistier that the other common whiskies on the market, and is quite popular with those who enjoy the Islay style of Scotch Whisky. With a fuller flavor than most Canadian Whiskies, Alberta Premium is aged in oak barrels for five years before bottling, and was the best-selling 100% Rye Whiskey in the world last year.
I am always on the lookout for a new local spirit, and my current favourite is the Roper’s Hold Straight Rye Whisky from True Wild Distillery, located in a historic 1911 building that was once Calgary’s first electrical substation. The distillery also boasts an onsite restaurant, which is well worth the visit to an otherwise dreary industrial park, with the distillery rising above its neighbours like a shining beacon of tipples and nosh. The dinner menu is upscale, and the $19 cocktails are lovingly prepared by master mixologists with twirly mustaches, making this historic building a destination for the cocktail crowd.
At your local bottle shop, you will find plenty of Rye Whiskies from small Alberta distillers, with the Eau Claire Distillery in Diamond Valley being the oldest, and celebrating their 13th anniversary this year. Looking to the west, Canmore’s Wild Life Distillery and Banff’s Park Distillery both boast their own Rye Whiskies, popular with tourists and locals alike. Take home a bottle today, or ask your local bartender to recommend a cocktail on your next night out.

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Nick Jeffrey

Nick Jeffrey

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